Monday, August 10, 2015

Coffee in the Crypt: Dublin

                It’s been a very busy week, and this coming week is liable to be even busier as I wrap up my studies here (finals are this Friday) and then head to Berlin for a visit before returning to the States. Before I discuss my plans for the final installments of my summer blog, though, I should let you know what I’ve been up to.
                The first exciting event of the week was the Cambridge Shakespeare Company’s rendition of Macbeth. It was excellently done; the only downside was that it took place outside, and for almost the entire first act it was raining – one of the few times it’s actually rained here instead of drizzling. It wasn’t the rain that was the problem as much as the row of umbrellas blocking my view, but I had a great time anyway, and rediscovered my love of Shakespeare.
                Also this week in Cambridge, I went on a tour of Trinity College (not to be confused with Trinity College in Ireland, which I also visited). They have quite a few famous alumni, including Newton, Frances Bacon, Bertrand Russel, and A. A. Milne.** We saw the hallway where Newton measured the speed of sound, the courtyard where they have the Great Court Run in Chariots of Fire, and part of the Library’s extensive collection. I stayed afterwards for a free student concert, which was nice and helped me rediscover my love of classical music.
                Now, on to Dublin. I arrived around noon on Saturday and immediately set off to begin touring. I started with Trinity College of the University of Dublin, where the Book of Kells*** and a very old Irish Harp can be found. The college is beautiful, also boasting many important alumni, such as Jonathan Swift, Oscar Wilde, and Samuel Beckett.
                After this tour, I grabbed lunch, wandered through Merrion Square and St. Stephen’s Green, and rested for a little while, then headed up to my hotel. After checking in, I visited the Dublin Writers museum, which paid homage to everyone from Shaw to Yeats to Joyce, and then stopped by the General Post Office, where began the 1916 uprising.
                Then (still on Saturday afternoon) I headed across the O’Connell Bridge and associated monument to see the National Museum of Archaeology, which hosted a fascinating collection from all periods of Irish history. After this I went to the National Gallery, because you know by now I can’t resist an Art Museum. Finally, I headed down to Grafton Street for ice cream, dinner, and a few souvenirs before heading back to the hotel around 7:30.
                However, despite my busy day, I was in the mood for action and wasn’t tired yet. There was a movie theater a few minutes’ walk away from me showing Ant-Man, so I decided I might as well go and see it. I wasn’t expecting to like it overly much, but it turned out to be really enjoyable. Marvel has obviously discovered the alchemic formula to turn wacky comic book fodder into blockbuster material.
                The next morning I headed back across the river to St. Patrick’s Park and Cathedral. The church is very beautiful and holds a lot of objects from Jonathan Swift and Saint Patrick’s time. I stayed there for a while before heading down to Christ Church, built on the site of the first church in Dublin, where I stayed for Sunday morning worship. The choir sang beautifully, the scriptures were read in deep voices with Irish accents, and the Sermon was about strength in times of weariness. It was wonderful, although I’m not used to taking the Eucharist with actual wine.
                Before the service (you’re supposed to donate as a tourist, but obviously you don’t pay to come to the service) I went ahead and took some pictures, including of the tomb of Strongbow. After services, they had a short fellowship with tea, coffee, and biscuits (cookies), which would have been perfectly ordinary, except that it was held in the crypt. I chatted for a while and then took pictures of that, too, before heading off again.
                I hadn’t expected Dublin Castle to be open until 2:00, but as it turned out, it opened at noon, so after grabbing a quick bite to eat, I headed over. The State apartments were lovely, but the museum was my favorite part of the trip. Not only did they have beautiful icons, paintings, bible covers, Qurans, and Egyptian love poetry, but they had parts of our earliest copy of a folio containing Acts and the four gospels. They also had part of the book of John dating back to 150-200 AD. Of all the beautiful things in that room, the papyri kept calling my name; I must have gone back to look at it at least four times.
                I still had some time after visiting the library, so I headed over to the Dublin Wax Museum, which was on my way back, and took a few pictures before grabbing a snack and heading to the bus. The trip back went smoothly, and I finished my 30-ish hours in Dublin happily. However, I was still in a touring mood, so this morning I began the day by visiting the Museum of Classical Archaeology and Botanical Garden here in Cambridge.
                This post is really long already, but I do want to explain my plans for the blog before I go. I’ll be spending the end of this week and half of next week in Berlin, so I won’t be posting again until next Wednesday. I’ll post then about my time in Berlin, then post one last time on Friday night or Saturday morning to reflect on my time at Cambridge. And then I’ll be off the grid, but only for a couple weeks – fall semester is just around the corner!

*Peer Advisors: regular students at the college who answer questions, lead recreational activities, and etc. At Harvard they’re called PAFs, for Peer Advising Fellows.


**Author of Winnie the Pooh. I always knew that was intelligent stuff. :)

Pictures: Obviously, this is only a very, very small percentage of my photos, but here they are - enjoy!

Trinity College, Cambridge - this is the courtyard from Chariots of Fire.

 The chapel (where the concert was held):
 The hallway used to measure the speed of sound (clap and time the echo):
 Ready for Macbeth:

 Trinity College, Dublin:
 The Long Room (aka the library, aka my happy place):

 The Dublin Writers Museum:
 GPO:
 National Museum of Archeology:
The lampposts are more artistic than some art I've seen...
 Park:

 St. Patrick's Cathedral




 Christ Church Cathedral:

 The Crypt:
 Dublin Castle Courtyard:
 The throne room:
 St. Patrick's Hall:
 View of the castle from the garden outside the museum (the museum itself didn't allow pictures):
 I usually don't take pictures from planes, but the view is usually fantastic:
 Cambridge Museum of Classical Archaeology (these are plaster casts of many of the famous classical sculptures):

 Cambridge Botanical Garden:

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